Outdoors / Appalachia

Grandfather Mountain via Tanawha Trail

Writing this two months later so my memory is a bit dodgy. My brother Matthew’s plan and mine was to drive to Beacon Heights parking area, hike to the Linn Cove Visitor Center, under the Linn Cove viaduct, follow the Blue Ridge Parkway, up Grandfather Mountain to Calloway Peak, then follow the ridgeline to Attic Window campsite- 12 miles in total. The following morning we would hike over Macrae Peak down to the Grandfather Trail Trailhead- just two miles- and hitchhike back to Beacon Heights. As I recall, things went according to plan.

It was raining as we arrived at Beacon Heights. Not as intensely as it had during the majority of the drive, but still raining. We set out with jackets and pack covers but quickly grew hot and removed them as the rain faded away. The ground was extremely rocky and I would not recommend doing this section of the trail- there are better trailheads farther along. We got a bit lost at the Linn Cove Visitor Center, but ultimately found the trail hiding behind a row of portapotties. From there we continued under the viaduct- a marvelous S-shaped elevated road and a true miracle of engineering. Our next stop was at the Rough Ridge Lookout, which had beautiful views and intense winds. The trail continues until a junction where the Daniel Boone Scout Trail splits west from the Tanawha trail and up Grandfather Mountain.

We followed the very steep Daniel Boone Trail to Flat Rock View where we enjoyed some wonderful views and delicious steak sandwiches for lunch. There is a nearby campground with a water source where we stopped to fill our water filter bag before carrying on, electing to wait until we had reached our campsite to filter (the Attic Window Campsite has no water source). The trail from here is very steep with numerous ladders, and I was glad Matthew was carrying the water.

At last we reached the mighty Calloway Peak at 5,946 feet elevation. Unfortunately, the mountain was now completely ensconced in clouds and there was nothing to be seen. We carried on for a few more miles before arriving at our campsite.

I cannot recommend the Attic Window Campsite enough. It sits just below and to the east of a large outcropping from which a beautiful panoramic view can be seen. The top of the outcropping is highly exposed to furious winds. Fortunately, these winds consistently blow from the West, leaving the campsite below totally sheltered by the rock. The skies opened up just enough for us to enjoy a glorious sunset at dinner before retiring to our tents. I had forgotten a spoon, but fortunately Matthew had an extra.

I slept better than I normally do in a tent. We rose early and set out after a light breakfast. The beginning descent from Attic Window is an extremely steep and difficult climb down through a boulder field, followed by a steep climb up to Macrae Peak. At last, the trail will become more gradual before ending at the Grandfather Trail Trailhead, home to the Mile High Swinging Bridge. I took a much needed dump and changed underwear.

Hitch hiking in the Appalachians is normally pretty easy. This time we had trouble. Maybe I’m not as young or as cute as I once was. We eventually caught a ride from a Bulgarian immigrant lady who gifted us some woven charms that I have now tied to my backpack. There is still kindness in the world.